So, with this being a low-key Christmas, I wasn’t sure if I was going to do new craft projects – I mean, other than the pastel Christmas village I made way back in January (dorky!) But blame Pinterest, I got the idea for these pretty marble-painted ornaments!
Craft paints. You’ll need the most of the white color. I used three different colors for each ornament – white, a color, and a metallic paint
skewer or toothpick to mix the colors
Ribbon or ornament hanger
Here’s how to do it:
Squeeze a small amount of paint into your ornament (I put some in each side of the two-piece ornaments) – mostly white, with a bit of a color and a bit of metallic paint
To create flecks of color, you can splatter some paint (mine happened naturally, when I was at the end of a jar of paint, and it came out in small amounts) and let it dry a couple of minutes before starting to swirl the paint
Use a wooden skewer or toothpick to swirl the paints gently – don’t overmix, as the colors will continue to marble in the next steps
For the two-piece ornaments, I closed the ornament and slowly rotated it to let the paint marble. To let the paint slowly fill the open areas, I rested the ornaments on top of my paint bottles, with the open area at the bottom. For the one-piece ornaments, after rotating a few times, you can rest it upside down over a paper cup to let the extra paint drip out
Once my two-piece ornaments were completely painted, I opened them back up to let the paint try, careful to keep the two matching halves together
Once your paint is dry, you can reassemble your ornaments and add a hanger!
I love that this is one of those projects where every result is different, and you can’t go wrong!
Here are some pictures of the finished ornaments. Looking forward to putting together our pastel-and-metallic Christmas decorations soon!
So, I actually did this project in January, being the Christmas decorating nerd that I am. It’s strange to think of all the things that have happened this year since I started planning our Christmas decorations. It will be our … Continue reading →
Here is the third and final (for now) installment of my dresser painting trilogy. First was the mid-century dresser; next came the faux campaign dresser; and last but not least is this faux bone inlay project! If you are thinking … Continue reading →
I’m on such a furniture makeover kick right now! Even as I was still finishing up my mid-century dresser makeover, I was already planning my first attempt at a faux campaign dresser! I had my eye out for an actual … Continue reading →
As I started making bags this spring, I have learned so much from Anna Graham’s patterns. My first bag was her 2-4-1 tote, and next, I discovered the trail tote pattern! Following these patterns taught me a lot about bag- making, and it has allowed me to try some of my own patterns, like the origami bento bags 1, 2, and 3, and panel tote.
I made the small size of this pattern, and I omitted the exterior zipper pocket, partly because I wanted to really feature the fabric, and partly because I am intimidated by zippers – but I have a feeling, I will learn somewhere along this bag-making adventure! This pattern did inspire me to make my own piping for the first time, so I am not a total wimp!
This is a free pattern available on the Robert Kaufman Fabrics website. I made it in two versions – from a gorgeous turquoise vintage kimono and a bespoke version for my friend Stephanie, who loves cartoon birds – a perfect fit for this cute fabric I had collected years ago!
Crafts are definitely calming for me, and this extra time at home has been devoted to learning to make purses and tote bags. I started with the Noodlehead 2-4-1 tote by Anna Graham, followed by her Trail Tote. With some … Continue reading →
I know I am not the only one who has taken up more biking during this pandemic. Lucas is now my height or a smidgen taller, so he has been riding my old bike, and I decided to take the … Continue reading →
I thought my bag-making mania might be slowing down after three Noodlehead 2-4-1 totes, four Noodlehead Trail Totes, origami bags versions 1, 2, and 3, a panel tote, and a foldover bag, but then I discovered the completely adorable ring … Continue reading →
Mixed feelings seem to be the norm these days, so – I am both sad that we need to wear face masks, and happy that I can make them. Now that I have tried a few different variations, it’s gotten pretty quick and easy to put these masks together. They are a satisfying way to use small scraps of fabric, and several have been going out by mail or on the doorstep to my friends. I’ve gotten some lovely chocolate treats in return – it’s a great feeling, when people know you so well!
The original mask pattern I made is in a prior post. Now, I have made a few updates that I think make it more comfortable (nose dart) and practical (opening at the bottom, if you want to add additional filter material).
Here’s what you’ll need:
Cotton fabric – use a tightly-woven material, such as high thread count bed sheets or quilting cottons for better protection (two 8″ squares per mask)
1/4″ wide elastic (12.5″ length per mask)
Cord for ties – I used spare shoelaces and some bias tape stitched closed (I yard per mask)
Basic sewing supplies
Here’s how to do it:
Cut two 8″x8″ squares of cotton
Round the top slightly (see picture below)
Fold the mask in half vertically, with right side facing, and sew small darts at the top center of each piece. My darts are approximately 7/8″ wide and 2 1/4″ high (see picture below)
Zig-zag stitch along the bottom of each piece to stop the hem from fraying, because this side will be left open to insert optional filter material.
Place the two pieces right sides together and pin
In between the two layers, pin the elastic 3/8″ down from the top corners, careful not to twist and pin the ties 3/8” up from the bottom corners
Starting about 1.5″ from a bottom corner, stitch toward the corner and all around the edge of the mask with a 3/8″ seam allowance, ending about 1.5″ from the opposite bottom corner, leaving an opening in the center of the bottom. Backstitch at the beginning, ties, elastic, and end (see picture below)
Clip the corners, clip the top curve, and turn right side out
Iron the seams flat and top stitch around the edges
Pin two or three pleats
Stitch the two sides to secure the pleats
Here’s how I wear these masks and some of the fun fabric and color combinations I tried:
Hope that helps others who are sewing masks. Stay safe, friends!
As you may have noticed, my Shelter-in-Place theme is sewing bags. Up next is my first version of an origami bento tote. I found these fabrics in my mother’s stash, and I thought the origami cranes were perfect for an origami bag!
I’ve researched a ton of variations on these origami bento bags and look forward to experimenting with my own versions. There are two main techniques for these origami bento bags. One uses two overlapping triangles and the other uses a long folded rectangle. They look very similar when finished. This bag pattern was made with triangles, which results in a heavier bag, because the pieces are overlapping. I’ll try to put up a general post about the construction of these bags. I found it really helpful to make models of the pattern pieces with scrap paper, to see how they fit together and what direction the pattern would run.
This bag is built from triangles, so the dimensions come out somewhat unexpected. Here’s what I learned from making three different sizes:
17″x17″ squares -> finished bag 11″ wide and 10″ high (but only about 5-6″ of the height is usable for storage. It’s a cute and compact bag, with just enough space for your phone, wallet, keys and chapstick.
21″x21″ squares -> finished bag 13″ wide with 6.5″ height for storage
24″x24″ squares -> finished bag 15.5″ wide with 8″ height for storage
Here what you will need:
For the body of the bag, two squares of fabric (see dimension options above)
*The pattern of your fabric will run in opposite directions on the front and back of the bag, so pick a pattern than works in both directions*
single fabric for a simple, clean look
two different squares of fabric to create a two-color exterior and lining
create each of the squares from two fabrics – one for the outside, and the other for the lining (this is the version you see below)
For the straps – 5″x50″ strap of fabric
1.25″ strap slider and ring
Fusible interfacing, basic sewing supplies
Prepare the pattern pieces:
Cut the fabric for the body of the bag and the strap. You will likely need to join two strips to create the 50″ strap. I joined the strips on an angle, to reduce bulk
If you want to have a different fabric for the lining, join fabric to make your squares, as shown below
fuse interfacing to the wrong side of the large squares. There are many layers in the finished bag, so one option is to leave interfacing off two of the corners of each square, to reduce bulk. In this case, it would be the two solid (not pieced) corners
Fuse interfacing to all except the last 3.5″ of the strap, on the wrong side of the fabric
Make the strap:
On the end with interfacing, fold a 1/2″ hem, wrong sides together
Iron the strap in half lengthwise, wrong sides together
Fold each side toward the center, wrong sides together and iron again
Fold the strap along the center lengthwise, creating four layers of thickness
Top stitch around the strap, including the hemmed end
Cut off the 3.5″ section without interfacing
Loop the 3.5″ section around the ring and pin (see picture)
Make the body of the bag:
Fold each square in half to form a triangle. If you are using a different fabric for the lining, like I did, fold it so that the lining fabric is on one side and the exterior fabric is on the other. If you left interfacing off two corners of your squares, the bare corners should be at the top of the triangle, not along the fold
Pin the short strap to the right side of one corner of one piece, next to the fold, as shown (see picture)
Pin the unfinished end of the long strap to a corner of the other piece, with the strap facing into the fabric
Pin and sew around the edge of the triangles, leaving a 4″ opening along one side, for turning. The two corners along the fold should be squared off, as shown below. On one end, you are using the seam to attach the strap. The opposite corner is finished to match
clip the corners and turn the triangles right side out
Fold each triangle in half again, matching the squared off corners
Place one triangle inside the other, as shown
On the triangle that is on the inside, topstitch to close the 4″ opening you left for turning the piece. The opening on the other piece will get closed in a later step
On the inside triangle, mark spots just under the the spot where the triangles overlap, and install the magnetic snap, as shown
Place the two triangles together again, and pin in place (see picture)
Topstitch along the edge of the outer triangle, to join the two pieces and also close the 4″ opening you had used to turn the outer triangle
Now fold, pin, and topstitch along the the two sides of the bag and the base of the straps. You could choose to leave your bag flat like this (see picture), or add box corners
To add box corners, turn the bag inside out, fold the corner, so that the side seam is aligned with the bottom seam, and sew across the white line. The fabric is very bulky at this point, which is when I realized that it would help to leave interfacing off of these corners
Finish the strap by looping the long end of the strap through the slider, around the ring, and back up around the inner piece of the slider. Fold the finished end of the strap back on itself and stitch in place
And here’s the finished bag! So I can wear it around the house!